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Writer's picture Kester Eddy

KesterTester116 - A Central European City Square

Updated: Aug 4

Replete with a heavy statue in the Socialist-Realist Mould - But where? Updated.

A photo I've only just found in my files - of what we might call a regional capital.


Now I'm asking everyone to play the game with this one - no using googly things, please, and I'll let some additional clues out as we go along. That means you can do some genuine sleuthing.


But I'll give you one clue: This is a city which has what we might call "some recent history".


However, I suggest you aim for the country where this is located first of all. If not, that will be the first clue my soft heart will deliver to help you in your quest.


Answers, please, not as a comment below the piccie, but to me via the messaging system or in an email, and kindly write KT116 in the answer, it will help myself and the extensive KesterTester Committee not to overlook your detective brilliance.


  • Added a little later - having felt the statue in KT116 is under the influence of Socialist-Realism, I must admit that it reminds me somewhat of the statue of Winston Churchill outside the Palace of Westminster - and I suspect the sculptor of that work would be horrified to suggest he allowed any such influence to affect that particular creation.


And have a great week!


UPDATE: 27 July 2024 -Phase 1.


Despite my kind efforts to make this easy by solving this Tester in stages, quite a number of you have charged ahead … china shops and large male bovine creatures comes to mind at times.


For example, first in was Alexander Faludy, who without even a 'Dear Kester' simply put:


Dubrovnik.”


That's modern youth, eh? Just want to get it done, win the prize and enjoy the accolades.


Little class and no finesse with today's younger generations, I fear.


Les Szabo next roard in.


“slovenia - libuania - went there twice.................”


Now this is a bit confusing, Les. Since, to the best of my knowledge, there is no nation of Libuania, you make me think you wanted to write Lithuania.


But you can't name two countries in a KesterTester – that's not allowed. Wouldn't be fair, would it?


Do you think you could clarify, please? Or go back and check where you went, perhaps? The Baltics are warm this time of year, so it would be a nice trip.


You might even meet Misi Hollós on your travels, as he thinks it's ooop north (even if not quite as far as Kaunas).


“Hello Kester,

I attempt an early guess before any additional clues are provided by you.”


Careful, Misi – male bovine creatures and all that – see above. 


The square in the pic strongly reminds me of Cracow’s Main Square (except that I don’t recall seeing that statue there – and yet...).


So you're going for Poland then, is that right?


Now, do I spoil, with this suggestion, my chances of having second thoughts on the location after you have given further clues?

Best, Misi”


I think that's a question for the Competition Committee, Misi – don't think I can take responsibility for all these variations. But I'll put in a good word for you.



Nigel Swann made contact from the Mediterranean shoreline.


Hi Kester,


 Currently in Antalya Turkey, where of course it is very hot and very sunny! but I am surviving.


KT 116 - I may be wrong but is it a city in Croatia?


All the best, Nigel.”


Next was a missive from András Hanák.


Kester,


the name of the country is on the plinth.


Andras”


Well, yes, but what's the answer, Andras? Greg Dorey was a little more helpful in this respect.


Hi Kester,


You do know Croatia’s written on the plinth, don’t you?


All the best, Greg.”


Yup, Greg. I was surprised myself to see it there, and in English to boot!

But some punters clearly didn't think to enlarge the photo.


Right. Now I've got Amy Módly and Gary Morrell who reckon it's Zagreb.


Well, it isn't. But to be fair, I have to give them (like everyone else) another chance.


Some punters have got it, by the way. The Competition Committee have insisted that these folks get some advantage over the latecomers.


So – more sleuthing from some, please!


UPDATE 2 - Results and Winner!


Well, the last update guidance worked in some casea, not in others. (Why is it some folks don't read what's clearly printed on the tin?)


Gary Morrell wrote in all the way from Nottingham to boast:


Zagreb easy peasy.” 


Hmmm. Easy peasy, eh? May I suggest tin, label, read Gary? Or go on a search for Maid Marian. Last seen amidst the trees in a forest to the north of you.


Alan Sutton thinks I'm a really devious, nay sneaky kind of bloke.


Dear Kester


As Croatia and Croatians are mentioned on the plinth, it would be too obvious if it was Croatia.


So it must be a Croatian part of somewhere else, and since any Croatian parts of Serbia have now probably been ethnically cleansed, I would go instead for any Croatian parts of Bosnia. I think the Hercegovina part was ethnically Croatian so will plump for Mostar, which I remember the Hungarian army was protecting at some point.


Not having ever been there, one's main impression of Mostar from a Hungarian point of view would be Csontvary's painting of the bridge, and I believe it was Hungarians who restored it after it was destroyed.


Can't check any of the above as we're not supposed to use google. Alan Sutton.”


Full marks for honesty, Alan. In truth, I wouldn't mind you checking – just I think taking a photo of the pic and doing a google photo search is not really … well, it's not much fun, is it? And in truth, I'd planned a couple of extra clues for this Tester – only it turns out that I don't need those. (More anon.)


Steven Fisher is a man of few words.


“Split,” sayeth he.


Hmmm. Split is one of those cities, like Iasi, Zlín and Ostrava, which were on my list of “Must do a city profile when I get the chance”. Alas, economic constraints on the FT (= nothing like enough advertising) meant a dearth of 'special reports' on countries in the region after 2010, and the chances never transpired, nor is it likely to.


Now some weeks back, soon after the publication of KT116, Hubert “Poirot” Warsmann wrote in to say:


KT116 In between the inscription on the pedestal of the statue and the Konzum shop in the background, this has to be in Croatia. Given the provincial Habsburg architecture on display, somewhere inland rather than Dalmatia or Istria. Could the man be Ante Starcevic as the words are his?”


Then David McCall swooped:


“Hi Kester,


The engraving on the side of the statue's base is a give-away: It is located in Croatia.

More specifically, it's in a city not far over the border from Hungary, one of the sister cities of Pecs, a city the Hungarian's refer to as Eszek. (Sorry, the Croatian name isn't coming to me.)”


I'll forgive you, David – this once. Names of central European cities are probably not mentioned too often in Oregon.


Part of the reason this is so interesting is that the statue has the remarkably "sovereign Croatia" quote, while the city has such an important place in Hungarian (and Hapsburg empire) history.”


Has it, David? While it had/has a Hungarian name (and German, and Serbian, I don't doubt), I'm not so sure it has ever had more than a relatively small ethnic Hungarian minority – and I suspect even some of those could well have been Jewish Hungarians. When I was there, from memory, I didn't hear any Hungarian spoken on the streets. Something I shall have to look up.


Frank Hegedus wrote in twice:


Dear Kester...


Obviously Croatia... Zagreb, maybe...?”


Before changing his mind/refining his punt a few days later.


Osijek, Croatia... Frank.”


On the banks of the River Thames, Chris Dalton opined:


Too many clues in this one to miss the trail (not cheated on) to find the central square in Osijek and find out that the statue is of someone who looks a lot like a cross between Brian Blessed and Captain Birdseye from the front…”


Oooooh, gosh Chris. I don't think we have too many regular Croats reading this blog, but Mr Starčević is a kind of Sándor Petőfi-cum-Lajos Kossuth of Horvatorszag – ie a revered national hero. Like Petőfi and Kossuth, I'm sure he had his warts … but perhaps better not to shout these thoughts in Dubrovnik next time you visit :)


Stefan Szecsei is always one willing to have a punt.


“Hi Kester,

I think it's Croatia, more specifically Osijek. I think the statue is that of Croatian politician Ante Starcevic. Best, Stefan.



After getting the guidance regarding the location was somewhere in Croatia, Graham Turner's memory stirred.


“I seem to remember seeing a similar statue with the same words on in Oszijek, but it was years ago.”


Memory not too bad, then Graham!


Finally, Michael Birch had his say:


Hi Kester

I am normally unable to offer solutions to your fascinating testers because my extensive but wholly inadequate knowledge of the region is built up from business trips. However, your comment about recent history prompted me to do some research. And so I offer you a guess. Is it by any chance the statue of Ante Starcevic in Osijek?

Best regards Mike


So there we have all the correct entries for Osijek, which is the capital of the Slavonia region of northern Croatia. (Zagreb is, of course, the national capital.) And yes, it does indeed seem to be the statue of Ante Starčević, but honestly speaking, I had no idea who it was until this Tester. (Or if I did, I'd forgotten.)


I did have a clue in waiting, if you clever sleuthers had not got it so quickly, namely that Osijek was surrounded on three sides by the Yugoslav national army (although, of course, it had become effectively a Serbian army by then) during the fighting for Croatian independence in the early 1990s. Not quite as bad as Vukovar, but the population still had a really grim time of it.


So, to the draw. Well, those who wrote the correct answer before the clue was given that it was Croatia get two numbers, with Graham and Mike getting just one. (Hubert “Poirot” Warsmann, along with a few others, did say Croatia – but not name the city! Sorry!)


So that's David 1 & 2, Frank 3&4, Chris 5&6, Stefan 7&8, Graham 9, Michael 10 – all going into the EU-regulations Black Woolly Hat.


And, as the tension rises, I can feel you all expectant, even here, such is the enormity of this draw … which is … number 2!


Yes, David McCall, step forward to collect your prize allowing you to buy me my two beers as fast as possible, please!


Congratulations and have a great Sunday afternoon over there on the Pacific seaboard of Oregon!


And thanks to all for taking part. I'll try to find a piccie for the next Tester some time during the week.


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